Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Making Tracks...


We are on the road! Sunday we left Vero and traveled to Titusville. Monday we motor sailed to Daytona. Tuesday was more of the same and we arrived in St Augustine. All in all we’ve progressed 173 miles towards our Charleston destination. I know that doesn’t sound like much – but by boat it is very good progress.

But about St. Augustine. For those of you who have never been to the city it is a great historic town. I’m sure I spoke of the fort during our stay for our southbound passage. The real enjoyment, for me however, is walking around the old town, enjoying the shops and restaurants along the way. We continue to be on our food binge. Tonight it was 2 for one drinks and pizza at PizzaAlley. Delicious.

The Admiral
4/19/09 – 4/22/09

Monday, April 20, 2009

Vero Beach...


After two days offshore being attached to a mooring ball in Vero Beach felt like a treat. After 5 days of not having set foot on shore we were ready for shore leave. And after a couple nights of TV commercials featuring great looking sandwiches, pizza and more we were ready for a dinner out.

It is amazing. While we have eaten very well on board and not deprived ourselves of anything, a dinner of cheese filled pasta with a rich cream sauce tasted sinful. I felt like I hadn’t eaten anything quite so decadent in ages.

In Vero, we shared a mooring with Gromit. His family, Michael, Cornelia, Zoe, Maia and Liam hailed from Canada. Of those we’ve met, the family on Gromit has one of the more ambitious ventures planned – a sail to Panama. Best of luck all and happy sailing.

The Admiral
4/15/09 – 4/19/09

Homeward Bound...


We left the gracious friendship and hospitality of the Boot Key Harbor the morning of Friday April, 10. As our friend Christopher on Tiffany Rose would say – we officially began Part 3 of our journey – the trip home. While disappointing to be leaving our winter haven of the Florida Keys, the trip is far from over. Even in the last week Mother Nature has made sure that our cruising is far from uneventful. Read on for the details….

If you recall, our journey down the ocean side of the Keys was done in darkness. We went offshore in central Florida and about 28 hours later arrived in Marathon. So our journey back up the Keys was entirely new to us – we sailed in both daylight and also chose the Gulf side of the Keys from which to cruise. We were surprised at how much territory we were able to cover our first day out of Marathon. We dropped the hook that day in Key Largo (the northern most part of the Keys) after a wonderful Easterly reach propelled us ahead while the Keys shoreline protected us from the waves.

By Saturday evening we reached Key Biscayne. It was very evident we were not in the Keys anymore. The weekend warriors were out in force in power boats, jet skis, you name it. While we would have enjoyed popping into one of the many state and national park anchorages for the evening, scanning the shoreline through binoculars found much of the area covered with wall to wall boats. Learning – avoid Key Biscayne on the weekends. Plan B was to pop into Dinner Key and drop the hook in the anchorage. As we entered the Dinner Key channel a menacing cloud hovered above. Suddenly it began to mutate and take on a larger much darker form. It seemed like only seconds later the winds and rain ensued. So imagine yourself in a fairly restricted channel with winds of 30-35 knots being pelted by droplets of rain which stung as it hit your skin and cringing as the lightening strikes lit the sky overhead and thunder so loud it rattled the boat. There was not much we could do except try to keep ourselves in the channel and avoid hitting other boats who struggled under the changed weather. Once in the channel there was little place to maneuver given the conditions and instead exited the way we came in, waiting out the storm in the open bay. Fortuntately, as quickly as the storm emerged it was gone and within an hour we were back to the pleasantness of the southern Florida sun.

Easter Sunday was an R&R day for us. We anticipated going offshore early Monday morning so elected to be idle on Sunday. Dave was disappointed that the Easter bunny couldn’t find Tropical Breeze and bring him chocolates. He, however, forgot the oversight when Sunday afternoon I realized that we could probably get TV reception being so close to Miami. What a treat – our first bit of TV reception in almost 3 months. After an hour of channel surfing we realized we hadn’t missed much in programming. Instead it was the restaurant commercials that tempted us with their delicious menu offerings.

As planned, we left Key Biscayne Monday morning and headed offshore for Fort Worth (Monday) and then Ft. Pierce (Tuesday) inlets. Both days were uneventful until Tuesday afternoon another one of those menacing clouds lingered over the Ft. Pierce inlet. When we were about a mile and a half offshore, Mother Nature decided to test us. The winds started gusting over 40 knots. The southerly swells almost immediately took on a northerly chop and the rain and lightning dropped out of the sky. Dave and I gave each other that look – you know the look – the one where spouses just stare at each other searching for an answer to the question what next? For us it was Dave who responded suggesting we either take it head on or turn tail and head back south. We elected to take it head on and an hour later we had finally traveled the last one and a half miles and were safely inside the inlet. Thank heavens!

The Admiral
4/10/09-4/14/09

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Looe Key...


Anticipating the next northerly to blow through we left Key West and headed back to the protective mooring field at the City Marina in Marathon. Along the way we stopped at Looe Key for another great snorkeling adventure.

Looe Key is known as one of the premier snorkeling spots in the Florida Keys. It did not disappoint. Fish were plentiful and the colors excellent. We snorkeled along the reef when all of a sudden out of my peripheral vision I saw somethng large. Looking further, I saw that it was a nurse shark. How exciting!!! I immediately grabbed Dave's arm and started pointing in the general direction of the shark. He got excited too and grabbed the underwater camera and took off to try to get a photo. The photo is a bit murky but hopefully you can make out the 5-6 foot nurse shark in the second photograph.
The excitement just keeps coming!!
The Admiral
4/4/09

Back to Key West...




Well it was time to leave the Dry Tortugas and return to Key West. The weather continued to be favorable and we didn’t want to push our luck by staying offshore from the mainland too long.

The sail back started a bit choppy with 5-7 foot seas but laid down nicely as the morning wore on. About mid-day we had a visit from a small pod of porpoises – and we actually got some photos of them. Finally!! We’d seen porpoises on many occasions but have never had the camera nearby to get photos. We also saw a big Loggerhead turtle but he dove beneath the water before we were able to get a picture. Camera shy I guess!

Enjoy!!

The Admiral
4/2/09

Landfall USA...













At this point, we are feeling great. Fabulous weather. Great snorkeling. Great sites. We really didn’t think the trip to the Dry Tortugas could be topped and then it happened.

As we sat eating breakfast out in the cockpit, we saw a boat from the national park service tow a raft into shore. This wasn’t just any raft, however. This was a homemade raft made by 11 refugees who had fled Cuba and landed in the Dry Tortugas. Who’d have thunk??

The Coast Guard then arrived. Unfortunately, they didn’t bring their cutter into the key but they did bring their launch in to pick up the refugees and take them to Key West. Apparently, as long as refugees land on shore under their own power they have the option of staying in the US. Any refugees intercepted while still at sea are returned to their home port. So a first rate day for 11 men from Cuba.

Oddly enough, over the last several days the Coast Guard has been announcing frequently on the radio that boats who see rafts are to report them immediately. Additionally, we’ve heard chatter of at least one boat who came across what was thought to be a refugee raft. Lots of activity as of late it seems. Why? I am not certain.

The Admiral
4/1/09

Look Out Below...



I hope with my entries so far you are beginning to understand what an incredibly unique place the Dry Tortugas are. The uniqueness is not specific to just Fort Jefferson, or the snorkeling areas or even the Loggerhead lighthouse. Instead everything – absolutely everywhere – you look is special. And that includes the 9-10 foot of water which was beneath Tropical Breeze.

On at least 3 occasions during our stay we looked down along the sidedecks of the boat and saw a nurse shark below. Now before you panic, please understand that nurse sharks are the nice sharks of the sea. They are docile bottom feeding sharks not aggressive sharks. Seeing the nurse sharks was not a complete surprise. We’ve seen them before. But what was surprising was that each sighting was a 5-6 foot shark. Sharks we’ve seen previously had always been smaller.

But this entry isn’t really a shark story. Instead it is a goliath grouper story. I mentioned this fish in the previous entry but didn’t give you much background. You see the goliath grouper grows to be 600-700 pounds. They are BIG! Because of there size, they were widely fished up through the mid-1900’s. The fish were not caught to eat, however, as they are not a tasty fish. The fish were caught for the pleasure and the photograph of a BIG catch. The goliath grouper is now a protected species in the Florida Keys and while once so few in numbers they were almost never seen in the Florida reefs they are now making more frequent appearances.

For us the goliath grouper’s first appearance was one morning while Dave was scrubbing the propellers on the boat. I hopped in with my snorkeling gear and the underwater camera to try to get some photos. While the photos are not great you can definitely tell there is a fish in the water. And the fish was a good 5 foot long and 250+ pounds!! It was amazing to watch him. If I got a bit too close he just lumbered away a few feet. He was not really in a hurry or feeling intimidated by me – but then why should he feel intimated – he was considerably bigger than me!

Our new grouper friend made a second appearance early in the evening. This time Dave and I were both on the deck of Tropical Breeze and we tried to get some photos of him – though it seemed as if he wanted to play hide and seek!!!

The Admiral
4/1/09